Sunday, September 05, 2010
Papa Louie’s Home Style Cooking Brings Taste and Class to San Antonio’s Southtown

Story and photo by Ramón Hernández

Papa Louie’s wakes up the taste buds, satisfies the hunger and soothes the soul.

The quaint homey diner – San Antonio’s newest culinary hot spot – is a family affair from the wait staff up to the chef and owner.

Alex Louie Martínez says his joy for eating, cooking and creating new flavors started in his mother’s kitchen. "I always enjoyed my mom’s cooking and watching her cook because she (Anna Navarro) was one hell of a cook." Thus the seed was planted.

However, he was sidetracked by his love for baseball from age five to little league, to high school to playing professionally for Los Pescadores de Vera Cruz.

"During the four years I played baseball in Mexico, I liked the taste and flavor of their cuisine so much; I wanted to bring that flair to San Antonio. Especially the way they cooked their mariscos – the fish, the shrimp, the oysters and calamari, which were prepare with fresh olive oil, lots of tomatoes and garlic," Martínez continued.

Unfortunately Martínez hurt his back and that marked the end of his career as a professional baseball player. After he was rehabilitated back to normal, a good buddy suggested he go to the Windy City and that turned into a life changing experience when he enrolled in a school for the culinary arts.

"When I was studying in Chicago, I used to frequent Bar Louie and I always thought to myself that if I ever had my own restaurant, I would like to name it kind of like the same because it flowed real well.

"Chicago also has its own atmosphere with places like Little Chinatown, Little Italy and Germantown. I loved the blend of flavors and different sauces; and sampling all those foods in one city, for me, made cooking more fascinating.

Therefore, it is that exposure plus experimenting on his own that makes the choices in menu of this diner seem like Baskin Robbin’s 27 flavors, and then some. The best breakfast item is the omelets because as Alex says, "They’re very challenging to make. You cannot burn, over or under cook an omelets. Another favorite is the RoJo Breakfast, which consists of two eggs, biscuits, gravy and a choice of bacon or sausage. He named this one after a friend named Roland.

This writer’s personal favorite was a toss-up between Eggs Benedict or the pecan and cranberry pancakes.

At noon, one can start out with "buffalo" calamari for an appetizer. "Buffalo?" As in buffalo wings?" this writer asked.

"Because everything ‘buffalo’ is hot or spicy and I make this calamari with a crispy taste and because they are not chewy," the 38-year-old chef explained.

A lunch sandwich that had my mouth watering and craving more was the Chicken Vesuvio Melt made with poltroon marinated in white wine, mozzarella, olive oil, pest, lettuce and tomato. Mount Vesuvius is a volcano and this sandwich erupts with flavor. And if you’re a hamburger connoisseur, Alex’s jalapeño, teriyaki and bean burger as fast becoming a crowd favorite.

Then there’s the regular entrees such as two fried or grill pork chops to die for, or the fish and shrimp dinner with a choice of three grilled or blacken swai fillets. In addition, the fried or grill pork chops here are so tender one can cut them with a butter knife.

Of course the menu also includes salads, soups, a senior and kids menu with a choice of ten side dishes, which include sweet potato fries and cream corn; and plenty of beverages, which include 17 different hot teas and hot chocolate that will have you sharing the good news with your co-workers.

In summary, this eatery’s menu offers great taste with a twist on "Mama’s" home cooking and all dinners are served with more than generous portions.

Adrian and Aaron Navarro plus Stefanie, the latter’s girlfriend; make up the rest of this family run business.

Papa Louie’s is located at 1012 South Presa Street corner Eager Street three long blocks south of East Durango Street in a catchy bright orange-colored building, so you can’t miss it. They also cater and deliver.

Their winter hours are Sunday to Thursday from 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. plus Friday and Saturday from 7 a.m. – 9 p.m. One can order take-out by calling (210) 532-3115.